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La Fleur de vacherin de Maxime Frédéric, L'OrangerieTable à découvert

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[Paris pastry guide / 巴黎甜點指南] Fleur de Vacherin / Vacherin之花(中文請按「繼續閱讀」)

Besides the World Pastry Cup news, I'd also like to share with you today a wonderful pastry creation made by Maxime Frederic, the chef Pâtissier of l'Orangerie restaurant, Hotel George V Paris.

Maxime was the former sous-chef pâtissier at Le Meurice when I interned there. I was always amazed by his talent, especially when he made his sugar and chocolate showpieces. I also remembered that I was wowed when he showed me how he made his tart shells - like nobody has ever touched it. It was that perfect.

Ever since he became the chef pâtissier of l'Orangerie, Maxime has created several stunning pastries, including this Fleur de Vacherin. Vacherin is a classic French frozen cake made of meringue and filled with Chantilly cream and fruits. Traditionally the meringue is shaped like a cake, holding the cream and fruits as a container. The way Maxime revisited it is that he turns the meringue into extremely thin and delicate flower petals. And instead of being a case, the meringue petals are placed on top, forming a flower in full bloom.

While the dessert tastes extremely light thanks to the meringue petals, the citrus fruit selection, grapefruit, lemon, lime, Iranian black lemon, and Timut peppers have all contribute to an extremely refreshing finish. Now watch the short video in which Maxime shows you how he prepares his signature dessert.

除了世界盃甜點大賽外,今天也想要和大家分享另外一個我非常喜歡的甜點創作,是由Four Seasons Hotel George V Paris的l'Orangerie餐廳甜點主廚Maxime Frederic創作。

這個粉絲頁剛剛開始的時候,我曾經介紹過Maxime的這個甜點,那時候因為是初夏,這個甜點是覆盆子口味的(法國紅莓果類水果盛產期為5-6月),後來做了一些變化,現在是柑橘口味。

Maxime是我還在Le Meurice甜點廚房實習時的副主廚,當時只有25歲。去年離開Le Meurice之後,他接掌了巴黎喬治五世飯店新開幕的l'Orangerie餐廳甜點主廚的位置,大家都很期待他的表現,他也不負眾望推出了許多令巴黎甜點界矚目的甜點、並被認為是這個世代最讓人期待的甜點主廚之一。我在Le Meurice實習的時候,就已經經常驚嘆於Maxime的巧手,每次他示範捏塔皮的時候,那個平整度都讓我無法置信有人剛剛捏過它。他的巧克力與拉糖showpiece細緻無比,很難想像是出於一個25歲的大男生之手。Le Meurice每回大型宴會的糖雕與巧克力雕塑都是由他和Cedric Grolet主廚負責。

Vacherin是經典的法式冰淇淋蛋糕,組成元素包括la meringue(蛋白霜)、la crème glacée ou le sorbet(冰淇淋或雪酪)、la crème Chantilly(香緹鮮奶油)與le coulis(稀果醬)。傳統上會將蛋白霜做成盒狀,裡面承裝冰淇淋或雪酪、再覆蓋上香緹鮮奶油,最後加上稀果醬。Maxime重返經典、重新創作的Fleur de Vacherin(Vacherin之花)包含了以下幾個元素:

Supêrmes de pamplemousse marinés dans leur jus 以葡萄柚汁醃漬的葡萄柚果片
Gelée de pamplemousse et citron vert 葡萄柚與綠檸檬果凍
Huile d'olive 橄欖油
Dôme fromage blanc et poivre de Timut 白乳酪慕斯與尼泊爾葡萄柚花椒莓
Sorbet citron et herbes fraîches 檸檬與新鮮香草雪酪
Sablé au citron noir de Iran 伊朗黑檸檬脆餅
Meringues en pétales 蛋白霜花瓣

傳統上蛋白霜佔的比重很大,但在這個甜點中蛋白霜因為做成極薄的花瓣(Maxime在影片中提及可能不到10g),所以口感非常輕盈、也不會過甜,視覺上更是美不勝收。香緹鮮奶油的部分則以新鮮白乳酪慕斯取代,並且以柑橘類水果作為整體口味基調。大家看看影片讚嘆一下吧!

#yingspastryguide #Paris #maximefrederic

Le chef Maxime Frederic dresse la Fleur de vacherin agrumes et herbes fraîches et vous allez découvrir combien de pétales sont nécessaires (et donc le nombre de gestes, sans parler de tous les précédents)


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高端甜點師轉身,華文世界首位以系列深度專文拆解法式甜點奧祕的作者。歷經巴黎米其林星級廚房 Le Meurice、Saint James Paris 及知名甜點店 Carl Marletti 等嚴格淬煉,擁有法國專業甜點師資格認證。著有《法式甜點學》、《巴黎甜點師Ying的私房尋味》、《Paris for the Sweet Tooth》;譯有《人氣甜點師的新穎傳統甜點藝術》。 長期為商業周刊、國內外雜誌 、以及 BIOS Monthly、博客來OKAPI 等媒體撰寫甜點專欄。常居巴黎,是當地社群媒體界知名意見領袖(Instagram @applespoon)。持續第一手引介與開拓法式甜點的專業知識與趨勢,攝影作品亦散見國際媒體。 畢業於「廚藝界的哈佛」Ferrandi 高等廚藝學校。在成為甜點人之前是行銷人與社會學家,擁有台大商研所、荷蘭 Utrecht University 社會研究雙碩士學位與數年國際品牌行銷經歷。 Ying C. is the first author to introduce the aesthetics of fine French pastry to the Chinese-speaking communities. Her in-depth analysis inspires her readers to embrace the world's latest pastry trends and the many facets of pastry making with appreciation. Former marketer and sociologist turned pastry chef, Ying continues to share the key to understanding pastries with remarkable photography via her blog and instagram. She writes for Business Weekly Taiwan and several online media, such as BIOS Monthly, Every little d, and OKAPI.books.com. She is the author of L’Art de la pâtisserie française, Ying’s Favorite Addresses in Paris, Paris for the Sweet Tooth and the translator of Opéra (Traditional Chinese version). Ying graduated from Ferrandi Paris, a renowned French school dedicated to culinary arts. She holds a French professional pastry chef certificate (CAP pâtissier) and boasts experience with Michelin chefs and some of the most prestigious Parisian pastry shops.
零時差深度評析世界甜點趨勢、拆解法式甜點奧秘。
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